Coldstream
 

If you enter Scotland via ‘the Wooler Road’ the A697 from Newcastle, the first Scottish place you will come to is Coldstream. 
It is the sort of place you pass through on the way somewhere yet it has much of interest.

It was at a major crossing point of the Tweed, first by a ford and then by a bridge.

Being at the Border it suffered during the border wars and, as long as England and Scotland were separate countries, inhabitants took advantage of whatever benefits there were in crossing the border, which was usually from south to north.

Being between the Cheviot Hills and the coast the way through Coldstream was popular with invading armies. However, it usually stayed in Scottish hands unlike Berwick which changed hands so often and finally settled for England even though it is on the same bank of the Tweed as Coldstream.

Coldstream has many pleasant riverside walks. Nuns Walk is associated with a Cistercian priory which was founded there in 1143. It stood where the Leet joined the Tweed but little of it now remains.

Near to the priory site were found great quantities of human bones believed to be the remains of victims of Flodden.

Irregular Marriages

The marriage arrangements at Gretna Green, on the extreme west of the Border, are well known. However, Coldstream was similarly advantageously placed inthe east and could provide a similar service, and it did. A similar service was provided at Lamberton, north of Berwick.

For many years marriages were performed at the old toll house until the law was changed in 1856 which required a residential qualification of three weeks.

The old toll house at the Scottish end of the bridge where the toll-keeper married run away couples.

Etal Castle

Pronounced Eetle

Etal Castle was built two years after Ford Castle and by the same builder. It was built on the prime location high above the south bank of the River Till.  The ruin you see is very much what was left after it was reduced by the Scots in 1513 prior to the Battle of Flodden.

Early in its history, in 1428, when the castle was held by the Manners family, it was seriously damaged when a feud with the Herons turned nasty.

See, at the gatehouse, the slots to take the portcullis and post holes to take the four strong bars which strengthened the entrance. There was a drawbridge over the moat. The huge keep is but a shell. Notice the garde-robes, the toilets. 

A road leads down to the River Till where there was a strong stone bridge, the remnants of which can still be seen. It was across this bridge that Sussex, the English commander, brought the field guns captured from the Scots at Flodden. and an opening had to be made in the side of the castle wall to allow entry of one of the bigger guns.  The change in the stonework can clearly be seen.

Etal is a 14^th century Border castle, a ruin, but there is still much to see. There is a very interesting display featuring Border history and a well-stocked shop.

A taped tour is available. Parking alongside and toilets.

Location

Take the A697 south east from Coldstream. Turn off on to the B6353 and follow the signs to Etal.

 Ford Castle 

Ford Castle was built about 1282.  In 1385 the castle was badly destroyed by the Scots.  After Flodden in 1549 the Scots again attacked the castle under a French general but the defenders held out.

It was at Ford Castle that the Lady Heron entertained the Scots King James IV before the Battle of Flodden. 
It is alleged that Lady Heron’s attractions gave the approaching English army time to prepare for the battle. At the battle, the Scots were heavily defeated. 

There is a bedroom, believed to have been used by the King and communicating by a single staircase with that of the Lady Heron.

Lady Heron spent the time before Flodden trying to arrange for her castle to be spared destruction. James agreed to do this if two of his knights, prisoners of the English, would be freed. The exchange was agreed with Surrey, the English commander, but Lady Heron's efforts were in vain as the castle was burnt after all.

The estate eventually passed from the Herons to the Carrs and the castle is now an education centre and is not normally open to the public.

For more detailed information go to the Ford Castle website: http://www.fordcastle.org.uk/

Ford Village

Part of a rural estate and very attractive. Waterford Hall, formerly the schoolhouse, 
is now a museum and village hall. See the display of watercolours and murals.
The 19^th century murals are also watercolours on paper.
Location.

Only six miles from the border. From the A 697 take the B 6354 to Ford. 
The castle is signposted.

Map ref: 74 944 375

               Wark Castle On Tweed 

Wark Castle, but the castles of Ford, Etal, Duddo, Norham and Berwick was a formidable line of defense against Scottish invasions.  The castle was situated on the English bank of the River Tweed a few miles west of Coldstream.  The castle stood on the elongation ridge in a very strong position.  Nearby was an important ford which it guarded.

Being so near the Scottish Border it was, as would be expected, subject to walk times of murderous onslaughts from the Scots.  It passed to many owners and videos time, but owing to its strategic position, it appears to have been assumed to be a royal castle.  Not only did it change owners, he changed nationality from English to Scots and vice versa not just once, but on numerous occasions.

And incident of no was when the Scots crushed into England and rated as far as Alnwick which they destroyed but were an able to take the castle. Edward the third grade north with an army and a Scots retreated back over the Border passing by Wark At that time Sir William Montague was in command of Wark and he sent out a force to attack the Scots rearguard capturing a number of horses laden with spoils.  Upset by this unexpected attack the Scots turned about and laid siege to the castle.  Undercover of darkness so William escaped and rode South meeting up with Edward at Newcastle.  Edward made haste to Wark and the Scots fell back across the Tweed and both the king and so William were greeted as heroes

That evening a ball was held in the castle hall.  The king joined in with the revelries and  while dancing with the Countess of Salisbury, the Countess dropped a garter much to the amusement of the guests.  Edward fastened it on his leg, rebuking being the bystanders with the remark, "Honi soit qui mal y pense."  This was the origin of the award the Order of the Garter, Edward's remarks forming the motto.

In 1419 the Scots by surprise attack took the castle and put the entire garrison to the so.  But only a few months later the English Their revenge when Sir Robert local with a small force gained access to the castle through a large shoe were which led from the river to the kitchen.  The is to open the castle dates of the Ford rush was taken back this time it was the turn of the Scots garrison to be put to the sword

81513 as James IV, on a journey that would take him to Flodden, took Wark Castle, Etal, Duddo and Ford.  After Flodden the castle ward was enlarged to accommodate 1000 horses and cattle. This great historic fortress is now nothing more than a great earthen mound with a few heaps of stone exposed in places is sore relic of its mighty past.

Location.

The castle lies alongside the village of Wark on the main road west from Corbridge.

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