Border Towns        Jedburgh
For Jedburgh and district use O.S. maps 
No. 74 & 80 

Jedburgh has had a troubled history.  Being so near the English border it was often the first place to suffer iinvasion and bloodshed.  It not only suffered from attacks were by the forces of the "the Auld Enemy," England,'s mother because it would be but also by the incessant raids of the English reivers.

Jedburgh Castle was completely demolished in 1409 by the Scottish Parliament to prevented falling in the English hands.  On the site was built the  impressive County prison in 1823.  It is no longer in use and a visit can be very rewarding.  A stands imposingly at the head of Castlegate.  It appears to a been built to keep people out rather than to keep them in.

Jedburgh developed under the protection of the authority of the great Abbey. 

Other abbey towns in the Borders are Melrose, Coldstream and Hexham.

Being only 10 miles from the Border Jedburgh was repeatedly destroyed by the English. The castle was frequently attacked and occupied by the English until eventually it was destroyed by the Scots themselves to prevent the English occupying it.

Jedburgh is often regarded as an Edinburgh in miniature having a long main street dominated by a castle, not the castle but the castle prison which looks as if it was built to keep people out rather than to keep people in. 

 Note Canongate Bridge which is 16th century.

There is so much of interest in and around Jedburgh that it calls for a prolonged stay. If you are approaching Jedburgh from the north by road stop at the woollen mills on the right. There is a large car park, cafes, and toilets and two shops stocked with woollen goods.

The menfolk of Jedburgh were noted for their bravery and was feared for their skilled use of the Jedhart axe, a four feet long steel capped pole.  Time and again Jedburgh was burned and pillage by the English forces.

It was said that the good people of Jedburgh were prone to punish first and to consider the facts afterwards.  This is no foundation of fact in this statement. Their sense of justice was no worse or better than that of other Borderers


Jedburgh  Abbey                                 

Founded by David I in 1138 and destroyed by the English no less than seven times between 1300 and 1545 . It is, however, the best surviving abbey.

Being of the order of Augustinian Canons, the monks were not confined to the Abbey. They were allowed to go out and serve in neighbouring churches.


St Andrews Church.

The church is 13th century but parts are 7th century. 
An interesting feature
of the Saxon tower is the number of Roman stones used in its construction.

Inside, can be seen the arch under the tower, which was taken from the nearby Roman camp.

In the churchyard, is the Vicar’s Pele which was provided for the protection of the local priest.

This was not unusual and some are still used as vicarages. Other examples are at Longhorsley, and at Elsdon, in Northumberland.

The tower was built of stones from the nearby Roman wall.

Notice the projecting machicolations from which unpleasant things could be dropped on attackers.
Note also the projecting garde-robe – the toilet.

Now part of a residence, it is probably nearly 500 years old and is one of the oldest of towers. It stands at the east end of the main street.
See the
slab built into part of the outside wall of the tower bearing an inscription to the Roman Emperor, Marcus Aurelius Antoninus.


The Spread Eagle Hotel

In the High Street is reputed to be the oldest hotel in Scotland.

Mary, Queen of Scots lodged here before moving to what is now The Queen’s House.

Sir Walter Scott and Robert Burns also visited the hotel.


The Capon Tree

The Capon Tree    
                        

A few patches of the ancient Jed Forest can still be seen in the neighbourhood of the Kerr stronghold of Ferniehirst, just south of Jedburgh.

Among the last few remaining royal oaks is the Capon Tree, a massive old veteran, standing alone at Priorhaugh, opposite Ferniehirst Castle. Its gnarled, twisted branches, spreading afar, is a sight to behold.

With a trunk of twenty-one feet in circumference, estimated to being a thousand years old, it still beaks forth into life with every spring.

What events must have occurred in its vicinity! 

An American businessman who lived nearby as a boy, retained throughout his life a vision of this mighty tree, and he directed, that when he died, his ashes should be buried beneath its branches. And this was done. 

On the road north to Jedburgh (the A68) look out for a sign on the left: the Capon Tree. There is a convenient lay-by nearby.

Also in the vicinity, but not as accessible, is the King of the Woods, another mighty Royal oak, with a girth of 17 feet and a height of 95 feet!

 

Nearby, at Priorshaugh, opposite Hundalee, is the Capon Tree, an ancient oak. It is believed to be 1000 years old.

Driving north, before Jedburgh, there is a lay by 
and a sign.

A few patches of the ancient Jed Forest can still be seen in the neighbourhood of the Kerr stronghold of Ferniehirst, just south of Jedburgh.

 



In Castlegate you can see the house where the Young Pretender, Bonnie Prince Charlie, stayed in 1745. 

This area has escaped the attention of the developers and has been restored with obvious care and sympathy. 

The houses here were once thatched, as indeed were most of the houses in Jedburgh at one time.

www.jedburgh.org.uk  Jedburgh Online is the official website of the Royal Burgh of Jedburgh - the town Where History & Courtesy Combine.

 


 



Southdean Church

Associated with the Battle of Otterburn.


 

 Jedburgh Castle

Jedburgh once had a castle but there is no trace of it now. 
It fell into English hands so often that  it became a liability and it was destroyed by the Scots themselves on the orders of Robert the Bruce in the 15th century.

During the wars of the 16th century, Jedburgh supported the King’s party, while nearby Ker of Ferniehirst supported the Catholic Queen. 
This state of affairs and the close proximity of Jedburgh to the English Border, contributed much to its people’s suffering.

 


Mary, Queen of Scots' House
                                                                                                                           

Mary Queen of Scots  House and Visitor's Centre


Of six strongholds in Jedburgh
  this is the only one left It has a barrel vaulted basement and the walls are 8' thick. 

On display are many domestic items which were used in medieval times.

Probably the most popular attraction is Mary's death mask. Also on display is a watch found at Queen's Mire, on the route she took when she visited the injured Earl Bothwell at Hermitage Castle, in Liddesdale. The watch was found in 1817 and had been lying there over 250 years.

Another feature of popular interest is the Queen's toilet which is built into the wall. In those days inside toilets were rare and only provided for the very wealthy and for people of high rank. 

There was no flush system and no toilet paper. Usually spagnum moss was provided in its place.

This is one of the most historic houses in the Borders and and has altered little since it was occupied by Mary. What was the Queen's room overlooks an attractive and colorful garden.  Hanging on the wall is a pictorial tapestry said to be the work of the four Marys, the Queen's maids.


Mary, Queen of Scots' House

Ferniehirst Castle 

 

Two miles south of Jedburgh on the road that follows the wooded valley of the Jed, a byway to the left wends it way uphill through the trees to Ferniehirst Castle.

the present building dates from the 16th century.  It has been carefully restored by the
Marquess of Lothian, who is the present owner.

A Ker stronghold, the original castle was erected by Sir Thomas Ker which he called Ferniehirst.

For some time it was held by an English garrison to 1549. They became detested by the cruelties they inflicted on the people living nearby. But the Scots eventually got their revenge.. Sir John Ker aided by a detachment of French troops laid siege to the castle.  The garrison resisted strongly until the Scots were able to breach the wall by undermining it.  The Scots burst into the castle in force thirsting for revenge against the hated English and especially the officer in charge whole had and encouraged and taken part in the atrocities the atrocities.

 

The defeated English garrison knew full well what they fate was to be and appealed to the French commander for protection.  However, the Scots whose wife being molested by the Captain came from behind and struck at the Captain was such force that his head went flying from his body.  The great cry of delight went up from the Scots and ahead most posh from hand-to-hand.  The English were bound and the Scots competed with each other to inflict the greatest pain before delivering the final blow.

 

After so disposing of their prisoners the Scots negotiated with the French for the purchase of the prisoners they had taken.  The were similarly treated with a refined skill.  it must have been a terrible experience the local Scots had for so long been subject to provoke such a barbarous revenge.

The Kers backed the cause of Bothwell and Mary, Queen of Scots, which resulted in the castle being demolished. It was rebuilt in 1598 by Sir Andrew Ker and later fully restored.

 

The ninth marquiss all rosy married the eldest daughter of the Duke of Buccleuch lists uniting to powerful Border families

Above the entrance, carved into the stonework, are the initials of Sir Andrew and his wife, Dame Ann Stewart, and the date 1598, with their coat of arms and the motto, ”Forward in the name of God.”


The Spy at Southdean

 

The Scottish army assembled by the Jed Water and it was at the church at Southdean (pronounced Souden) Map ref: 80 631 092, that the leaders of the Scottish forces assembled in August of 1388 to plan their incursion into England, which culminated in the Battle of Otterburn.

 

The ruin of the old church lies alongside the A6088, the road from Cater Bar to Jedburgh, and is accessible to the public. Parking is possible just to the west of the site. 

Each year, on the second Sunday in August a commemoration service is held at the site.

Back in the summer of 1388, the council were in session within the church discussing the details of their plans for the proposed incursion into England. Unnoticed, an English squire had gained access to the church and overheard all the secret plans of the Scots.

With his head brimming with vital information, he left the church but found, to his horror, that his horse had been stolen.

His dilemma was serious. If he were to report the loss of his horse his identity would be revealed, but the sight of a gentleman attired for riding, wandering about on foot, would inevitably draw attention.

Soon, he was apprehended, and brought before the council. Under pressure he was forced to reveal not only his identity, but also the disposition of the English forces.

As a result of this information, the Scottish leaders adjusted their plans which contributed greatly to their later success.

The Englishman, it is said, became a double agent but nothing is known of his subsequent career. 

The Battle of Otterburn was fought south of the town on the 19th August 1388.  

 

 
 


Fatlips Castle 




High up on the skyline in a commanding position is Fatlips Castle. 

The site commanded a wide view of the surrounding country and the castle was used to provide a beacon when danger threatened.

The castle stood as a ruin for many years before it was restored at the end of the 19th century.

Owned by the Turnbulls of Barnhill, a notorious freebooter.

From Jedburgh take the A 68 north. After crossing the river take the next by road on the left signposted Ancrum. Do not enter the village but keep straight on along the minor road. Fatlips Castle is high up on the right in about four miles.

Map ref:-74 583 208


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