There was a Priory once at Canonbie, hence its name, but it was destroyed by the English in 1542. The stones were used in the building of Canonbie Bridge.
Here, the Border was dominated by the Armstrongs on the Scottish side and the Forsters on the English side. Border ties were stronger than national affiliations, the families having more in common with their neighbours than with members of the own nationality living beyond the Borders.
Gilnockie Castle
The
site lies immediately left of the north side of Hollows bridge.
It occupied a strong defensive site once the seat of the Lairds of
Mangerton (Armstrongs).
Not much of the castle remains.
It was the home of Johnny Armstrong of Gilnockie and was unfinished at the time of his death.
It can be reached from Canonbie bridge.
Canonbie lies within the area which was known as the Debateable and this
great tract of land was under the jurisdiction of neither the
Scots nor the English and thus became a refuge for all the outlaws and
undesirables in the region.
For more information about the Debateable Land and of the Scots Dyke
associated with it, go to the Debateable Land
pages.
Kershopefoot
Lamyford, near Kershopefoot was one of the places where the wardens of the Marches met to settle international disputes. Typically the jury consisted of six Englishmen selected by the Scots and six Scotsmen selected by the English. They would exchange grievances and seek to settle all disputes amicably.
To the east of Kershopefoot stretches a great area of moorland, crossed by innumerable tracks, many only known to the moss-troopers. Much of it is now an equally featureless forest of conifers.
Gilnockie Tower
Gilnockie Tower (Hollows Tower)
The tower was
built in the late sixteenth century on the site of an earlier bastle
house.
Although a number of Armstrong chiefs are reported to have lived here,
it could scarcely have accommodated a chief and his family and his
retinue.
It was more likely to have been part of the defensive system of
Gilnockie Castle.
A rare feature still to be found is the beacon grate perched on the roof. These were part of a signalling system to warn of an impending attack.
Inside the entrance is a stone slab known as the "Dead Stone." It is said that beneath this slab many Armstrongs of note lie buried. The practice of burying the dead at the entrance to the tower appears to have been quite common in the Borders.
However, in
some parts of the Border an enemy of the owning family was buried under
the entrance slab. They were humiliated in death by being walked upon by
their enemy.
The tower was restored in 1980 and there is access right up to the
parapet on the roof.
There is said
to be a passage from the tower under the Esk to Gilnockie Castle but no
trace of it has been found.
Presently owned by an Armstrong in the custody of another Armstrong who
lives nearby in Canonbie who will arrange a guided tour which is
strongly recommended.
Phone 013873
71876 to make arrangements..
To locate the tower take the A7 north from Longtown. Pass the second
road off to the right signposted Canonbie and then turn right down a
minor road.
Take the first on the left to the tower.
The
Debatable Land
The Debatable Land extended from Tarras Moss in the north to the Esk
estuary in the south. It was about three and a half miles wide.
The
history of this small but important territory is one of petty warfare
and constant dispute.
When the Border between Scotland and England was
established, three areas along the border remained in dispute.
It was
about the year 1450 when we first hear this district described as the
Debatable Land, which, because of its size and position,
obscured the other disputed regions.
When
the differences involving the other disputed
areas were settled, this problem remained unresolved until 1551 when
agreement was eventually reached.
As both countries were suspicious of any involvement of the other, the
Debatable Land became a haven for all the 'broken men', drop outs and
miscreants in the area.
It was a sanctuary for thieves and, as would be expected, a source of
great distress for those trying to establish the rule of law.
Both countries claimed this land but neither had any jurisdiction over it. Both England and Scotland, however, made a joint declaration outlining their involvement, and declared that everyone should refrain from conflict and conduct themselves in an orderly manner.
Elements of the Elliots, Crosiers, Nixons,
Turnbulls, etc,
and, of course, the Armstrongs, the clans that had spread into the
Debatable Land, hadn't much time for declarations, and went about
their business in their usual fashion.
Frequent
attempts were made to dislodge them by official forces, but most attempts
failed and the few successes were temporary. They simply melted into the
nearby wastes, and returned to resume their lawless activities when the
immediate danger to them was over.
Such was the trouble caused by the Debatable Land that both Scotland and
England were forced into making a joint declaration that 'all Scotsmen and
Englishmen from this time forth shall be free to rob, burn, spoil and slay
any person or animals or goods belonging to all who inhabit the Debatable
Lands.'
It was a free for all, an open invitation to take any desired action against those who had settled there and had used it as a base from which to launch their pillaging.
That didn't work, either.
Eventually,
It wasn’t until agreement was
reached to share out the land, that each country assumed responsibility
for enforcing the law in their portion.
However, it took a long time for both governments to achieve some sort of
order and maintain even a uneasy peace.
About 7 miles north of Canonbie a track leads to a large standing
stone which was the northern boundary of the Debatable land.
Map ref: 79 431 839
Driving north from Canonbie you will come upon the farms of Harelaw and
Caulside. (map ref: 79 45 80) Here you could linger a while and
consider that you are now in the very heart of Reiver country, for it
was here there lived the most active and the most feared of all the
Reiving families.
To the east are the farms of Bankshead and Whitlawside, the haunts, in
days gone by, of many a famous Reiver. It is worth leaving the car
behind and straying from the road to savour the very sights which were
so very familiar to those in Reiver times.
If you take the track to the left within two miles you will reach the
standing done which marked the northern boundary of the Debatable Land
and, to the south, beyond the Long Cairn burial site is Tinnis
Hill.
Today, Liddesdale is quite sparsely populated.
Other family place names in Liddesdale include:-
Liddesdale has always been a separate Lordship under the authority of a keeper who was captain of Hermitage.
The Greens
Tinnisnurn
Puddingburn
Harelaw
The Park
Woodhouselee
Mangerton
Byreholme
Barngleish
Milnholm
Hawthornside
Whithaugh Tower
was the home of the second house of the Armstrong Clan.
Map ref: 85 49 88
Auchenrivock Bastle House
Take the A7 south and it is on the right 3 miles south.
Considerable remains of an
Armstrong bastle house, burnt by Dacre in 1513.
The bastle is now in private hands.
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